Wondering what glycolic acid can do? The short answer: a lot, which is why it has become a staple in many skincare routines. This powerful exfoliating acid is especially effective for acne-prone skin. If you’ve been switching between salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinol only to experience flaking or irritation, incorporating glycolic acid could be a game-changer.
Beyond clearing breakouts, glycolic acid also targets hyperpigmentation, dullness, fine lines, and wrinkles. By adding this anti-ageing powerhouse to your routine, you can expect improved skin texture and a more even, radiant complexion. Below, we’ll cover how to use glycolic acid, how often, what to avoid, and more.
Understanding Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane. It belongs to the same family as lactic acid (from milk), tartaric acid (from grapes), and citric acid (from citrus fruits). What sets glycolic acid apart is its small molecular size and simple structure. According to dermatologist Kenneth Howe, MD, “It’s the easiest AHA for the skin to penetrate, making it highly effective.” Skin therapist Alix Shapiro adds that this allows it to deliver results both on the surface and deeper layers of skin.
The Benefits of Glycolic Acid for Your Face
Glycolic acid acts primarily as a chemical exfoliant. It breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells in the stratum corneum, the skin’s outermost layer, allowing them to be gently sloughed away. Dr. Howe explains that the tightly packed dead cells are loosened by glycolic acid, revealing fresher, brighter skin underneath.
Its small size also lets it penetrate deeper, stimulating fibroblasts in the dermis to produce more collagen. This enhances skin firmness and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Combined, the surface and deeper effects of glycolic acid result in smoother, more radiant, and even-toned skin. Glycolic acid isn’t just for the face—it can also be used on the body to address clogged pores or dark spots on areas like the back or arms.
How to Incorporate Glycolic Acid into Your Skincare Routine
Start slowly, especially if you have sensitive skin. Shapiro recommends beginning with a glycolic acid cleanser since it can be rinsed off, allowing your skin to adjust. Pairing glycolic acid with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or squalane helps prevent dryness.
If your skin tolerates it well, professional-grade chemical peels are highly effective. These treatments are stronger than at-home products and often provide noticeable results with monthly sessions. For at-home use, glycolic peel pads can be used twice a week initially, gradually increasing to every other day if your skin handles it well. Daily use of high-strength products is not recommended.
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Who Should Use Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid works best for normal, combination, and oily skin types. People with dry or highly sensitive skin may experience irritation, particularly during winter when skin barriers are compromised. It’s important to select acids based on your skin concerns and goals—glycolic acid isn’t inherently better than salicylic acid or other exfoliants. Salicylic acid, for instance, targets acne but doesn’t provide major anti-ageing benefits.
Because glycolic acid removes dead skin cells, it can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. Always apply sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher to reduce the risk of sun damage.
Ingredients and Practices to Avoid with Glycolic Acid
While glycolic acid can be combined with gentle ingredients like hyaluronic acid, it’s best to avoid using it alongside other harsh exfoliants, benzoyl peroxide, or strong retinol treatments. Combining multiple strong exfoliants can increase the risk of irritation and redness. Opt for serums and moisturizers that contain hydrating ingredients and limit additional exfoliating products during your glycolic routine.
Glycolic Acid for Acne Treatment
Glycolic acid is effective for acne-prone skin. It works by loosening dead skin cells, which helps clear pores and prevent blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples. For mild to moderate acne, it can be used selectively, avoiding already sensitive areas. Those with rosacea or cystic acne should consult a dermatologist first. For acne and hyperpigmentation, products with around 10% glycolic acid are ideal, while lower percentages suit sensitive or mild acne cases.
Potential Side Effects of Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is generally safe but can cause mild irritation or tingling. Serious reactions are extremely rare. One safety feature is that glycolic acid is neutralized upon contact with water, which helps prevent excessive penetration into the skin. Professional supervision is recommended for higher-strength peels or during sensitive periods, such as pregnancy, but overall, glycolic acid remains a highly effective and versatile skincare ingredient.
